Selvedge Denim

selvedge denim

Selvedge denim, back in the business

Despite the term “selvedge denim” is associated with “raw”, these have completely different meanings, the first one is about the edge of de denim whereas raw is about the “wash” on the denim itself.

Before the 1950 decade, most of the denim was made on “shuttle looms”, which uses a small device that leaves a “self-edge”, sealing all the edges of the fabric so there are no fray yarns.

However, after that time, the denim jeans demand dramatically increased; therefore, the mill companies started to make denim in “projectile looms” in order to produce massive orders at a lower cost. However, the edges of the fabric are not sealed when using this kind of loom, causing the denim sensitive to fray.

 People passionate about denim, might think the opposite way but, a none “selvedge” jean does not necessary mean that the quality is poor,  it’s just about a finishing that might be less fancy and traditional; but, with a great manufacturing quality, it could last the same and it could also have a clean and/or pretty finish.

US manufacturers were the first to process selvedge denim, but when the mills changed to the massive production, the styles become obsolete; leaving that to the Japanese market. Nowadays, there’s only one mill that still produces this type of denim, its edge id color is red, the id colors are now used for decorative purposes only.

“It is so interesting to see how this denim is on the market again, we have developed and produced new styles using fake selvedge appliqués because of the reborn selvedge “boom”, upturned cuff styles “showing” the colored lines on the out seam were so popular, our last season was the skinny selvedge jeans for men”, said Salomon Juan Marcos Villarreal, president of Grupo Denim, a recognized manufacturing company, located in La Laguna, Mexico.

Types of denim

types of denim

Types of denim and its classification

Denim has many popular components to create garments worn daily, such as jackets, vests, shirts and skirts, and the most common garment, denim pants; however, this material could seem very alike to inexpert eyes, but there are too many different types of denim and their classification varies depending on the components used on it.

Here are some of the type of denims that exist nowadays:

  • Premium denim – Is the dyed fabric that has not been washed, it is generally treated with chemicals, and it is also known as “dry” denim, it has a darker color and when you touch it, the texture is very rigid, but after it is washes, the color starts washing out, and the denim as well gets softer after some washes.
  • Matt denim – To obtain a washed out and softer denim, the mill manufacture fabrics with elaborated processes such as pressing and mercerizing, which achieves cotton fibers that compose denim to expand, while the rolls of the machinery are in charge of shading the surface of the fabric. Both processes are done as a result of the shiny denim with a softer premium one.
  • Adjustable denim – It is a mix of cotton fibers with spandex weaves, when they are sewing together, you get a more flexible fabric that is used to manufacture adjustable denim pants that can fit any figure.
  • Ring spun – This type of denim is a  little harder to be found, because of the way it used to be producing, by rings that form weaves until the denim is created but this type of fabric fell into disuse in the 70’s, when manufacturers opted for less  expensive options.
  • Organic – Created with 100% organic cotton, regulated by the Organic Trade Association, using sustainable conditions, but due to the materials and treatments the cost to manufacture this fabric is more expensive, and for this reason, this denim is not as popular as the rest.
  • Bull – Known as bull denim, is a crossed cotton denim, it is not dyed and is soft, but is heavier than the denim traditionally used. One of the advantages is that it last for much longer and it is used on other clothing like hats, shorts or purses.
  • Silk denim – A choice for the classic denim, used with regularity as the threads used to manufacture it are silk ones and have enough strength to be sewn with other fibers on the denim.

“In Grupo Denim, we constantly look to innovate ourselves, so we are always searching for different denim combinations that will help us create garments of better quality and to propose new alternatives that will help us satisfy our customers”, commented Salomón Juan Marcos Villarreal, president of this company.

Textile Industry working on reinventing itself

textile industry

Textile Industry working on reinventing itself

The textile industry is continuing facing the illegal textile trading and now the companies need to think and work very hard to develop new ideas not just to fight the sale of the illegal garments at a lower price but also to be more competitive. The industry cannot wait for the government to solve the problem so actions must be taken against this scenario.

Since the problem cannot be solved immediately, the only way right now to work against it, is to develop new markets, following the most highest levels of quality control, buying and selling is no longer enough for the textile entrepreneur and now is the time to look for new tendencies of design and production that are already running all around the world; if not, the apparel industry will be left behind; however, the view seems to be promising and the government is already informing that the illegal trading is decreasing, feeling confident that the programs they are running are giving the expected results.

Industrial entrepreneurs foresee the apparel business in Mexico to grow in the following years, for Salomón Juan Marcos Villarreal, president of Grupo Denim, it is mandatory to offer quality products, this is how the company has been present in the market through all these years without been affected by illegal trading of the local business.

“I think that we need to build a partnership between designers, vendors and entrepreneurs in order to create and consolidate biggest fashion collections, we need to keep on doing the apparel trade shows to make stronger relationships for the Mexican market, showing machinery, chemicals, new fabrics, new manufacturing processes, runways, business and exportation plans, investment and also conferences about new trending, we need to keep on innovating”, said Salomón Juan Marcos Villarreal.

Fibers and their properties


What are the fibers and their properties

Fiber properties and behavior are directly related to fabric performance and care. Learning about fibers and their characteristics will help you to understand fabrics better. Fibers are natural or chemical structures that can be spun into yarns. Yarns then can be weaved, knitted, or bonded into fabrics.

Four major natural fibers and 23 man-made fibers are available. Natural fibers come from plants and animals. The plant fibers, cotton and linen are made of cellulose. Animal fibers, silk and wool, are made of protein.

Two classes of man-made fibers are those adapted from cellulose (cellulosic) and those made entirely of chemicals (noncellulosic). Noncellulosic man-made fibers often are called synthetics.

Each fiber is identified by a generic name. The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act that officially established the generic fiber classifications became effective in 1960. All fibers (natural or man-made), yarns, fabrics, and household textile articles (includes articles of wearing apparel, draperies, floorcoverings, furnishings, beddings, and other textiles customarily used in a household), are covered by this Act.

Generic names are assigned by the Federal Trade Commission and are used to classify fibers according to their organic composition. The generic or official name is the key word you need to know and understand.

The Identification Act also stipulates that the product must be labeled. The label must name the manufacturer, the country where processed or manufactured, and the generic names and percentages of all fibers in the product in amounts of five percent or more listed in order of predominance by weight. Fibers present to the extent of less than five percent may be listed as “other fiber” or “other fibers.”

Some fabrics are made from a blend of two or more fibers. The fiber making up at least 50 percent of the blend will most influence fabric characteristics.

In addition to generic names, there are hundreds of trade names or trademarks. A trade name or trademark is the word or symbol used by fiber producers to distinguish their products from the products of other manufacturers.

The trademark is registered with the U.S. Patent Office, and the fiber manufacturer who produced that fiber is the only one allowed to use the registered name. For examples, polyester is the fiber or generic name, and Dacron is a company trademark for polyester; acrylic is the fiber or generic name, and Orlon is a company trademark for acrylic.

A basic understanding of fibers, in terms of their characteristics, uses, and care requirements will help you make wise choices when purchasing textile and clothing products commented Salomón Juan Marcos Villarreal president of Grupo Denim.